Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

This is Custom quilting on a vintage top.

Q: What do you mean when you say machine quilting?

A: Think of the quilt as a sandwich. The patchwork pieced top you made (or found or inherited) is the top layer; the fluffy batting is the filling; and the backing is the bottom layer. When you quilt, you stitch all layers of your sandwich together with a pattern. This quilting can be done by hand, and looks lovely, but it can take a very long time. Machine quilting takes the place of hand quilting. You can use your domestic sewing machine to quilt a section at a time or you can use a longarm sewing machine. Tillie, my Gammill longarm machine, is lots bigger and faster than a domestic sewing machine.

Q: What is a pantograph pattern? What is an all-over pattern?

A: A pantograph is a quilting pattern with a repeat design. It is stitched from edge to edge, usually from width to width. An all-over pattern also runs from edge to edge, but it can be precise, like a pantograph, or more free, like random loops or meandering.

Q: Can you make the machine stitch look like a hand-quilted stitch?

A: No. Some domestic sewing machines have a “hand quilted” setting, but my longarm machine’s stitches can come pretty close. Take a look at some of the examples under the Stitching Options button at right to see what I mean.

Q: Can I have a border pattern and an all-over pattern?

A: You sure can combine all-over stitching designs with border and corner designs. It’s a bit more expensive, though, because it is custom work.

Q: I know the batting can shift if I don’t have enough machine quilting. Will you tell me if you don’t think there is enough?

A: I will recommend the minimum amount of quilting you can get away with. It depends on the batting. A dense, thicker batting can take less quilting. Packaged batting will state on the label how far apart quilting must be to avoid shifting.

Q: What are my batting options?

A: I offer two brands (see the Price List PDF Form). Or you can provide a batting. Be sure to follow the Prep Work guidelines.

Q: What will the quilt backing look like? Can I send my own? If I want just white, can you supply that?

A: The backing can be pieced, solid or a print. You can send your own, using the Prep Work guidelines. I can supply your backing in cream or white 100% cotton for an extra charge.

Q: I have a quilt backing fabric I want to use, but it’s not big enough so I need to seam it. Is that OK? How do you recommend doing that? Is there fabric I can use that is wide enough to avoid a seam?

A: You can sew pieces of backing together, and sometimes using coordinating or contrasting prints for the back makes an interesting design. Just be sure the whole piece is 4 inches wider and 4 inches longer than the quilt top. Also cut off the selvage edges of your backing fabrics before you seam them together, to keep the tension even when the fabric is quilted. Your seam or seams should be pressed open to prevent bumps running across the quilt. You can buy wide fabric. Here are some links: Widefabrics.com, Fabric Depot, or you can make an online search for wide fabric. I don’t recommend bed sheets for backing. They are woven too tightly and can cause tension…both on the quilt and the quilter!

Q: Do I wash my quilt top and back before I send it? What if I don’t? Can I wash it when you are done and get a vintage look?

A: IMPORTANT: Do NOT wash the pieced top before sending it to be quilted. The raw edges will fray into a tangled mess. If you are concerned about colors running or shrinkage, prewash the fabrics you are using on your top before you piece it together. If your quilt will be used under a baby, on a tabletop or spread out for a picnic, prewashing the fabric before you piece the top will prepare it to stand up to lots of laundering. The backing fabric can also be prewashed if it is likely to shrink or bleed color.

Test your fabrics for color fastness by snipping off scraps and plunging them in very warm water for a few minutes. If there is color bleeding in the water, you can pretreat the whole piece with a dyer's detergent such as Synthrapol SP, a product that washes out excess dye. Or you can wash with a product called Retayne to fix the colors in cotton fabrics so they will not bleed. Both are sold by local quilter's supply shops as well as by most mail-order dye supply houses (see Sources for Dyeing Supplies). Remember to iron the backing after you prewash it. If I have to iron it, I will charge you at $20 per hour.

That puckered, vintage look you see in new quilts comes from using batting that has not been prewashed. When the quilt is finished, you can wash the whole thing and it will draw up with nice little puckers. Shrinkage is about 3 to 4 percent.

Q: When I get my quilt back, will it be done?

A: Unless you have purchased extra services, you will have to finish it by trimming off the excess fabric and batting to a quarter inch, making a binding and stitching it on, then making a label and stitching that on. Or, I can do all those things and send you a completed quilt! Extra services and pricing are on the Pricing Form PDF.

Q: How do I stitch on the binding?

A: My favorite method is here from quilter Heather Bailey. There is another method more suited to small quilts here from Lynn Harris. And check out this nifty video by Marci Baker of Alicia's Attic on joining the ends of your binding with little fuss.

Q: If this quilt is a gift, can you ship it directly to the recipient? 

A: I can gift wrap and ship at an additional cost, Pricing Form PDF depending on the size of the quilt and the shipping address. You will receive an e-mail notice when the quilt is ready to ship. Once payment is received, it's on it's way.

Q: How will my quilt be shipped back?

A: I use the US Postal Service Priority Mail service in the United States with up to $500 of insurance against damage or theft. E-mail me for shipping quote.

Q: I have a vintage quilt top. Can I send it to you to be quilted?

A: Vintage tops pose some special challenges. I have quilted them with great success and one disaster. I do not wash them. If they are in good condition with few tears or seam damage, don’t have much bias stretch and are square or nearly square, vintage tops should quilt up just fine. But if they are family heirlooms, contact a local quilt guild to get an appraisal or advice. You should ask whether modern machine quilting will affect their value. If I have concerns about that with your vintage top, I will tell you beforehand. Here's an example:

Custom quilting on vintage pieced top.

Q: Can I add hand stitching to a quilt after you machine quilt it?

A: I don’t recommend it. If by "hand stitching" you mean extra embroidery, it’s better and easier to embroider on the top before you send it. However, if you decide to add stitches after the machine quilting, you can enclose an area in a large hoop to add both embroidery and extra hand quilting. The embroidery stitches should only go through the top layer. 

Q: Can I send a quilt with hand quilting already on it?

A: Possibly, so send me the specifics by e-mail and attach a photo.

Q: I have a drawing I’d like reproduced on the quilt by machine. Can you do that?

A: Again, I’ll need to know the specifics by e-mail with an attached photo.

Q: Can I get a price break on sending multiple tops to be quilted.

A: Discounts for multiples would depend on deadlines and the time of year. Send details by e-mail with attached photos.

Q: When will I get my quilt back?

A: I’ll give you an estimated lead time when I receive your quilt top. I will update you via e-mail if I can finish sooner. To be safe, allow 60 days.

Q: Do you ship overseas?

A: Yes, but costs will increase for fees and insurance. E-mail me for a quote.

Q: Can I specify colored thread to be used?

A: Thread options are limited to neutrals – cream, taupe, medium gray or white cotton.

Q: Can I just send you a piece of fabric to be quilted, like a bed sheet?

A: Bed sheets are not recommended, but you can send sufficient yardage to make a plain top (sometimes called whole cloth) and I can quilt it following your instructions on the Work Order PDF. Extra charges for seams, batting and backing would apply.

Q: Some quilts are stiff while others are fluffy. After you machine quilt it, what will mine be like?

A: That depends on two things: the amount of the quilting and the kind of batting used.

Q: Can I just tell you to quilt it the way you think best?

A: Communication is critical to avoid disappointment. I’m happy to give you some options according to your budget, but you should make the final choice, so you will know what to expect. I do not offer a refund for my work, and I want you to be happy, so let’s agree on what you want. I’ll walk you through it, either by e-mail or phone.

Q: Can any of the stitching be removed? What if I don’t like it?

A: Quilting can be removed, but it takes many hours and I don’t do that. If we agree on a stitching style, I will quilt it as agreed. As stated above, I do not offer refunds, but I want you to be happy, so let’s agree on what you want before I start. I’ll walk you through it.

I hope this covers it! If you have any additional question, please don't hesitate to e-mail me.